Journals from the week ending October 4, 1996
The Moai
by Derek Zavitz
10/2/96, aboard ship...The sun sank below a distant mountain on the horizon and the cold air filled our campsite. The Concordia crew gathered around a campfire to share stories about our eventful trek through Rapa Nui (Easter Island). We were all fatigued and all ready for a hearty meal to fill out empty stomachs. The food arrived and it was devoured instantly. The hunger pains we were all feeling vanished with the nutritious meal supplied by Vicki and her generous family. The moon and the stars were shining bright, enabling us to easily find our sleeping gear. I tied my sleeping bag to my back pack and headed towards some nearby moai that awaited me in the mountains. The moon reflected on the island's surface, leaving a narrow path of bright light. I followed this path up the mountain and to a cluster of moai. I chose my sleeping location in front of two stone structures that towered over me. Their expression was plain, but inviting.
When my sleeping bag was ready, I crawled into it with one layer of clothing on to keep myself warm from the cold air. The two moai were directly behind me and their facial features formed a shadow over my body. I knew my two friends would protect me from the rain, wind and any rocks that might break lose and fall down the mountain. For some reason I felt secure sleeping on a mountain surrounded by massive stone sculptures on the most isolated land in the world.
That day I had learned many different things about the moai. Enough information for my imagination to run wild. I realized I was sleeping among objects that are still a mystery to the world, no one is certain where, when, why and how these structures where built.
I was high enough on the mountain to see the Pacific Ocean, the rugged Rapa Nui terrain and a clear view of the moon and stars, the same scenery the moai have been staring at for hundreds of years. I felt a part of history, a part of a creation, a part of something spectacular. At some point during this fantastic experience I fell asleep.
I was awakened by a falcon crying for its prey. The sun had not yet risen, so I decided to climb further up the mountain for a better view. Just as I reached the peak the sun appeared over the clouds, making the sky brilliantly red. The heat of the sun dried up the morning dew that rested on the scattered vegetation. I sat on the cliff two hundred feet above the ground, thinking about how thankful I am to be able to have experiences such as these.
Easter Island: A Fantastic Sight
by Benjamin Dunn
10/2/96, aboard ship...Easter Island is a remote island surrounded by hundreds of kilometers of open ocean. With its nearest neighbor some 1900 km away, it's history and culture are unique. By going there I was engulfed by these differences that enthralled and fascinated me.
The sun was shining and you could see little mountains capped with a dull green grass. As the dinghy drove in, I sat on the port side with my mouth wide open. This was like a vision, my eyes filled with beauty as I have never seen. The enormous waves crashed onto the rocks surrounding the minuscule, secluded harbor. We arrived to a gathering of friendly locals, who immediately greeted us with open arms and smiling faces. This was only the beginning, however, it is instilled in my mind as the perfect start to a fantastic port.
We hiked and hiked over grassy plains, past little patches of trees, until we hit the main road. We went swimming in a majestic cove and the water was super clean. I have never swum in such clean sea water, however, it was frigid. With the waves breaking upon my head I saw the backs of the moai as though they were avoiding my very existence.
These were the first moai I had ever seen, they stood powerfully on their sculptured bases. Their stone faces were distinctive despite their age. When facing them, it seemed as though they were staring straight back at me. They seemed to be waiting for me to say something, anything.
The meals on the island were simple yet incredible. Sandwiches and boiled eggs filled my stomach at almost every meal. It was a nice break from our meals on the ship. The sleeping was nice, too. We saw countless moai, and even had a chance to climb up the side of a hill that had steep slopes with many unfinished moai scattered about.
The next day, it was finally time to go to the town. The streets were relatively narrow with only a few cars, some horses and a lot of motorcycles. There were supermarkets at almost every block, things were expensive. I had a great time on Easter Island, it was a great port stop.
Solving the Myster of Easter Island
by Aubin Dupree
10/2/96, aboard ship...I think the first time I heard of Easter Island was when I was reading one of Franklin Dixon's books about the Hardy Boys. I don't remember entirely what the book was about (besides it being a mystery) but I know it described something about the enigma of Easter's statues.
Ever since then, I found, I would think of that mystery whenever I heard speak of Easter Island. It wasn't until this year, however, that I actually found out where Easter Island was or how it fit into the modern world. And it wasn't until last week that I unraveled its mystery for myself.
Our arrival at Easter Island was not spectacular by any means, but it took long enough that we were tired with excitement by the time we landed. I was on galley duty for the day and my glimpses of the island were limited to the small speck I saw before Colors that morning. We rushed to make tea for the Customs officials as we anchored and it must have been good tea, for we were allowed to land on the island that evening, a day earlier than expected.
And what a landing it was. The tiny quai wasn't even visible from the water, even when one was thirty feet away, and the four foot swell, although not much to behold from the ship, rose up in the shallows and broke around us as we surfed the rubber dinghy to shore. We set off hiking after landing and after a while we came to a bend in the road under a line of trees. Our campsite was there nestled under a bright orange piece of tarpaulin near a small fireplace.
Across the road from the camp and through a glade of palm trees I found a small crescent beach settled in amongst the rocks. The hills continued haphazardly on to the left but on the right was some construction housing and equipment, seemingly abandoned but undoubtedly just waiting - Easter Island style - for the next job. A little dog had followed me this far from the camp and he followed me along as I climbed the ridge beyond the bulldozer. There wasn't much to see there so I returned to the beach, descending the hill and picking my way through the building materials until I reached the soft white coral sand that filtered through my sandals so easily.
I returned to the beach and I paused to look more earnestly at the statues that I had ignored earlier during my walk to the water. Five moai sat in a line facing the inlet, and as I went past I realized for the first time exactly how amazing my time ashore would be.
And it was amazing. In my few days on Easter Island, I saw what so many people long to see and experienced what so many people long to experience. I walked on the most isolated land in the world and I slept on the slopes of the volcanoes that gave birth to that land so long ago. By day, I visited the famous statues and learned their impressive origins. By night, I laughed with my friends and tried to make myself realize exactly where I was and what I was doing.
So I saw Easter Island. I lived there, if only for a short while, and I ate the food and lived the life of the people. I met the statues and listened to their story. I solved the mystery for myself.
Ocean Challenge / e-mail: ocean@oceanchallenge.com / Class Afloat '96-'97
(c) Copyright 1996, Ocean Challenge